After the sun in the test: Well-known creams and lotions are not convincing 2

After the sun in the test: Well-known creams and lotions are not convincing

test method

We bought 29 lotions, gels, sprays with "After Sun", "Après Soleil" or "After the Sun". From those eleven she wears a label that makes ÖKO-TEST a guarantor of true natural cosmetics. Famous branded products, branded discounts and drugstores, natural goods, pharmacies and perfumery stores are included. The prices ranged from 92 cents to 40 euros for 200 milliliters.

The laboratory analyzed scents that could cause allergies or criticize consumer advocates for other health risks. Cosmetics with petroleum products such as paraffins on the list of ingredients have been tested for contamination with aromatic petroleum hydrocarbons. In addition, the laboratories tested all post-sunlight products for questionable formaldehyde / separators and controversial organohalogen compounds.

Rating Legend

Scoring result Ingredients: According to the results of the test components lead to a devaluation with four notes: PHMB. To devalue each of them: a) Lilial (Butylphenylmethylpropional); b) PEG / PEG derivatives; c) more than 10 mg / kg of polychrome musk compounds (in the table: smell of artificial musk); d) organohalogen compounds; e) detection of MOAH. To one-note devaluation leads to: a) Lyral scent, which can cause allergies; b) more than one percent of silicone compounds and / or paraffins / artificial paraffinic substances.

Results of the assessment test Other shortcomings: Under the result of the test, the following deficiencies result in two-note devaluation: a) silicone and / or artificial paraffinic substances of hydrogenated polyisobutene, if they are not already devalued between the constituents, and / or other synthetic polymers (here one or more of the following compounds). Carbomer, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polypropylene, sodium polyacrylate, glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer, PVM / MA copolymer, ammonium acryl dimethyl taurate / VP. b) highlight the inscription suggesting that the sunscreen is acutely treated (here: in the red "SOS Anti-Redness" on the front of the pack). For devaluation by means of a note leads: a cardboard that does not protect the glass.

The overall assessment is based on the test result ingredients. Test result Other disadvantages that are "satisfactory" or "sufficient" will degrade the overall grade for one grade. Test result Other deficiencies that are "deficient" or "insufficient" will degrade the overall grade for two grades. For legal reasons, we point out that we did not verify (promised the manufacturer) the effects of the product.

methods of testing

Depending on the product's composition:

Silicone compounds / paraffins / petroleum products: Declaration and / or NPLC-RI. Saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH / MOSH analogs): LC-GC / FID. After dissolving the sample in a suitable solvent and adding the internal standard, the extract is saponified, purified by HPLC normal phase and MOSH / MOSH analogs and MOAH fractions are separated from each other and from the interfering components. After pre-separation by HPLC, both fractions are transferred to a gas chromatograph with time shift, and saturated hydrocarbons are quantified by internal standard.

Aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAHs): Petroleum hydrocarbons are extracted from the sample with appropriate solvents and saponified. The aliquot of the extract was added to the column with a solid phase. This serves for purification and pre-separation of MOSH / MOSH analog and MOAH fractions. First, the MOSH / MOSH analogs were eluted and discarded, then MOAH eluted and eluate collected. The eluate is concentrated and is determined by MOAH using online HPLC GC.

Described scents, polycyclic musk, cashmeran and diethyl phthalate: Extraction with TBME, GC-MS.

Formaldehyde / cleavage: acid steam distillation, derivatization with acetyl acetone, n-butanol shake and photometry determination. Halogenated organic compounds: a) hot water extraction with subsequent centrifugation and membrane filtration, binding of organic halogens to activated carbon, combustion of activated carbon in the oxygen stream, microcrystalline determination of the halogen content; b) Extraction with ethyl acetate, combustion of oxygen extract extract, microcrystalline determination of halogen content. Polyaminopropyl bigvanide: HPLC-DAD after extraction. PVC / PVDC / chlorinated compounds: X-ray fluorescence analysis.

Buying test products: April 2019.

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