Especially in times when there is hardly any other beauty theme than that healthy glow, everyone wants it: a flawless complexion. But very few women have it. About 30 percent of 25-45 year olds suffer from nodules, pustules, and papules, the so-called tardy acne.
How do pimples and acne develop?
The triggers for this late acne are many. "Hormonal changes, such as pill withdrawal, poor diet, stress, medications or oily anti-aging creams, can be to blame," says Munich dermatologist Sabine Zenker, but whatever the cause of acne is one characteristic: Impurities do not occur (only) in the T zone , but in the cheeks and neck and around the mouth, and often they do not disappear on their own, unlike pubertal acne.
Best tips and products
This is how you get beautiful skin
4 expert tips
But don't panic, get rid of even stubborn impurities: with the right care, highly effective professional treatments and special therapies inside. And for a transitional period or for those who don't want to give up makeup: the best tips for fooling Glow for so long while he's really not here …
1. Beautician Tip: Mastering the basics of nursing
Anyone who proclaims a stain for combat would prefer to proceed with caution – at least for care. Sylvia Enders, a cosmetics professional and director of training at Clarins, pleads for gentle tactics.
Real skin care:
Acne skin needs different care from that of a 14-year-old. So stay away from the classic anti-pimple products for teens. A highly alcoholic face tonic is just as taboo as an abrasive particle scrub. "It irritates already shaken skin and stimulates sebum production," says Sylvia Enders. Instead, it should rely on gentle cleansing and aftercare products for light, non-greasy gels or liquid textures. for example, on the basis of salicylic acid.
Suitable active ingredients:
In addition to salicylic acid, tea tree oil and zinc also have an antiseptic effect and reduce inflammation. These are best worn locally, with. B. with on-site treatment. Chamomile, sage and rosemary tonic soothes redness and irritation. Sylvia Enders also recommends light serums, such as strawberry tree extracts, that regulate sebum production. Applied once or twice a week, clay or mineral masks refine the skin, removing oily skin. Special Tip Sylvia Enders: Herbal Lotus Extract concentrate with antibacterial effect. Apply under night care!
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2. Dermatologist's advice: Apply professional treatments
From gentle to hard: the secret weapon of dermatologists and beauticians. Our professional is dermatologist Dr. Sabine Zenker.
Professional treatment that helps very well with minor impurities. Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical skin removal: Here, the top layers of the skin are monitored and gently wiped – usually with devices that emit fine sand dust. Everything happens mechanically and therefore without chemicals. "This treatment is especially suitable for sensitive skin," says Zenker. Frequency or irritation is rare in microdermabrasion, but its effects are not as powerful as chemical peels and treatment should be repeated regularly, about once a month (cost: about 80 to 150 € per treatment).
"Externally, a dermatologist can treat late acne creams that regulate the level of skin around the skin and exhale," the dermatologist explains. A typical active substance is benzoyl peroxide (BPO, eg in "Cordes BPO 5%" gel, approximately 5 €). Acids such as fruits, lactic and azelaic acids are also used to remove keratinization. In addition, prescription vitamin A, which additionally whitens and stimulates collagen formation. Creams with peeling ingredients cause scrubs and can cause itching and irritation. To reduce the risk of skin irritation, the skin should be slowly adjusted to creams. Example: You start with three treatments a week and slowly increase the frequency up to twice a day.
In late fall, light therapy can also help. "The affected areas are treated with a device with light of different wavelengths. Blue light promotes oxygen formation in pores on the skin and thus reduces the formation of typical acne bacteria, red light promotes blood flow to the skin and thus healing wounds," says Sabine Zenker: a little pain and irritation Ideally, eight sessions within a month, twice a week (cost: about 40 to 120 € per treatment).
Chemical peeling is a skin treatment with special peeling preparations. Depending on composition and concentration Dissolve scrubs, remove brown spots or treat small scars, Fruit or salicylic acid is usually used in acne therapy, stronger acids are used to treat acne scars. Fruit and salicylic acid, depending on concentration, take several sessions; in the case of stronger ones (eg trichloroacetic acid) treatment is usually sufficient. Basically, according to Sabine Zenker, "The stronger the exfoliation, the better it can work, but the stronger the skin exfoliation." For fruits and salicylic acid, it is socially acceptable again after two to three days; for stronger exfoliants, the wound healing process can take two to three weeks (costs: depending on the depth of the exfoliation, vary greatly, approximately 60 to 1500 € per treatment).
Recipes and instructions: How to make the scrub yourself
3. Non-physician advice: bowel health note
The cause of acne is often in the gut. Non-doctor Ulrike Töpperwien knows how to get him back in balance
How Do You Treat Late Naturopathic Acne?
"We naturopaths scan our skin for skin diseases like late acne." Hormonal in balance? Is the diet correct? How is the gut flora? What does the psyche do? All of these issues are relevant in acne therapy. "
What therapy has worked well for you?
"I prescribe alkaline cleansing to my patients one week. In addition to dairy and meat, spicy spices, sugar, coffee, alcohol and nicotine are taboos during this cure, which is all that impedes metabolism. According to the hierarchy of Chinese medicine detox, the following applies: it does not cure the intestines, liver and kidneys, at the end of the day, and at the same time I do a stool examination and see if the patient has new mushrooms in the gut. "
And if all is well in the gut?
"Regardless of such therapy, I would advise any acne sufferer to change their diet and refrain briefly from sugar, white flour, fast food and most dairy products, and then just look at how the skin reacts."
What can be done if a late attack is hormonal?
"In this case, I try to re-establish hormone balance, through relaxation methods and hormonal yoga, foot reflexology where I focus on points that stimulate excretory organs such as the liver or kidney and by applying natural hormones, such as tree trunk or yam.
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Tip 4 Makeup: Glow a fool
The hardest thing to do when covering unclean skin? Not to look "cakey"! Makeup artist and founder of online beauty magazine junemag.com, Susanne Krammer, tells us how to do it step by step.
First of all, wash your hands thoroughly and disinfect your brushes and sponges (for example, with a spray cleaner), otherwise you will spread the bacteria to already shaken skin. Then apply a light moisturizer. "Never use oils or primers that seal the skin," says Susanne Krammer.
Cover – or right:
"After the moisture-based foundation, I rub the cleaning fluid onto the impurities and allow it to dry for five minutes, so the color pigments really turn red, and then the edges of the sprayer will fade with my fingers."
Powder powder with system:
Even unclean skin should only be partially applied to the powder and the area of the cheeks left out. Otherwise it is quickly masked and bumpy, in the technical language called "cakey". If the skin is extremely oily, you can alternatively apply a thin layer of powder. Before foundation and preferably with a fresh cotton pad.
Make your skin glow:
“In the cheek area, I would not use acne highlifts because they emphasize impurities,” says Susanne Krammer, “how do you still look fresh? Gloss on lips and underneath the eyebrows there is a glittery shade that is used in nude colors.
Text: Alke Habbe
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