annabelle: Liv Kraemer, the trend is increasingly turning to natural cosmetics without chemistry. But what really differentiates it from conventional cosmetics?
Liv Kraemer: We combine natural cosmetics with purity and health – without any chemicals. But we have to keep in mind that nature in its essence is also chemistry and physics, and without chemistry and physics it would not exist. And moreover, when something – whether natural or conventional cosmetics – gets into the jar, the process of chemical processing must first occur.
Then I ask myself differently: What is natural cosmetics?
What do you mean, what can and what is not in natural cosmetics: there is no single definition in all of Europe. The name is not protected to this day. Basically, natural cosmetics means a mixture of different extracts, from raw materials of vegetable, mineral or animal origin, i.e. fats, oils, wax, herbs, floral water and essential oils.
"When something comes in the jar,
first there must be the processing, the chemical process
have happened – this applies to all cosmetics »
And what is conventional cosmetics?
Conventional cosmetics are more likely to use individual ingredients from the studio. They were originally obtained from nature, but are now partly manufactured. But there is no exact definition of what conventional cosmetics are.
People are increasingly paying attention to healthy eating and organic products. Isn't it a logical step to take a closer look at his beauty products?
I am a completely holistic person and I am convinced: you are what you eat. Food that goes through our gut – and is nearly eight feet long – has a profound effect on our bodies and our health. But as for healthy eating, it is becoming increasingly difficult for us consumers. So there are studies that show that our conventional foods are poorer in selenium, zinc and iron. So, for example, healthy is not spinach from the market, but one from the freezer; because the minerals are still inside. And it is equally complex with cosmetics. This means: You don't just have to throw everything in the pot, you have to look very specific about individual cases.
How should the consumer decide whether to use natural or regular cream?
The question to ask is: why do I use one and why not the other? Using a product just because "nature" is on it, I find it wrong. Many people then imagine the whole landscape of the wall in the crucifix. I am in favor of using his common sense when using the current state of science. I would no longer bathe like Cleopatra in fermented donkey milk, just because it is "pure nature". I would rely on lactic acids because science has discovered that lactic acid makes beautiful skin.
complicated as it is
looks. One may
in cosmetics, as
in many others
Life, just not
black and white thoughts »
Is one better than the other?
Not. For example, we know that chamomile has many good properties, but it can also be very irritating to the skin. While the manufacturers of natural cosmetics use the whole chamomile extract for their products, the manufacturers of conventional products use the active substance bisabolol isolated from them. This is much less allergenic than the extract. If you have glowing skin, you can use the whole chamomile extract. Others, on the other hand, will struggle with irritation and redness and should only use single-drug products better.
Preservatives, plasticizers, chemical-synthetic fragrances and colors, raw materials from the oil industry – the list of ingredients of conventional cosmetic products is long. Are such ingredients really healthy?
Now use all those keywords that are so negatively affected. I don't think so. For example, mineral oil is one of the safest ingredients because it is not only extremely durable but does not penetrate the skin at all. For example, natural cosmetics often use essential oils and herbal extracts, such as arnica, chamomile or calendula, which are considered to be particularly allergenic as preservatives. We doctors, therefore, only use conventional products for problematic skin because they are the least allergenic. Because you need to know that every cosmetic product, be it "natural" or "artificial", contains preservatives, because otherwise it wouldn't last long.
Then the statements about products such as "perfume-free and preservative" are not true?
In total there are 16 perfumes that irritate. This must be stated by the cosmetic industry. All the other 230 perfumes, but not. If a cosmetic product does not contain "perfumes and preservatives", it does not mean that there are none. Fortunately! We would hate to smell products without perfume or essential oils.
So how to proceed with product selection?
As a consumer, you should first consider what consistency is right for your own skin. Is my skin particularly dry and needs a rich cream or is light enough fluid? By comparison, soup can be imagined: in one the vegetables are pure, in the other the vegetables are floating. One would then be cream and the other serum. Only when this issue is clarified do you look at what ingredients should be in the product.
"On the packaging it should
So, no anti-wrinkle & # 39; or
& # 39; Free from … & # 39; – It is
just marketing! – but,
what exactly in the product
Can you explain it a little more?
Tea tree oil is said to help with acne because of the antiseptic effect of tea tree. However, because of its oily consistency – the same goes for mineral, soy or coconut oil – the product will remain on the surface of the skin. If you have unclean skin, this will lead to a greenhouse effect. It would be better, so you would just take the tea tree oil ingredient and pack it in gel instead of oil.
It's kind of confusing.
It's not as complicated as it sounds. In cosmetics, as in many other areas of life, one simply cannot think black and white. And often something just seems complicated because people tend to look too closely. The normal consumer goes deep in terms of ingredients and discusses things that don't even play a major role. It has become a common trend that you want to know everything. In cosmetics as well as food. And fear is often created by ignorance. However, it is impossible for a normal consumer to get an Inci list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, Editor's Note) decipher. This is sometimes difficult for my students. Therefore, I advise my patients to simply ignore slogans and not allow the industry to lead them in the wrong direction.
And how should it work?
Pay particular attention to the main ingredients. The packaging must not be "anti-wrinkle" or "no …" – it's just marketing! – but, what exactly is in the product. The most important substances should be on the front of the product.
But I have the feeling that many consumers pay particular attention to such "anti" and "no …" terms.
Unfortunately, yes, but these sales arguments, as in the case of perfume and preservatives, are pointless. This is the case, for example, with discredited parabens. There are several hundred parabens on the market, five are labeled harmful, all others are very safe. If the product is "paraben-free," it means that none of these five harmful ingredients are present in the product. But not that it contains no parabens!
"I love labels
pretty much regardless. I'm in favor
Ingredients. And there it is
there are very many. my
They are favorites
Fruit acids "
And what should we do if it no longer has an overview of all the beauty of the jungle?
It's like a sport. And you know a lot about things there, but you also know that when in doubt, you can do a lot of harm and harm your body. So the next logical step is to take on a coach. It should be the same with the skin. In the US, everyone has their own dermatologist as a skin trainer, but unfortunately not in Europe.
Well, not every person can afford a dermatologist.
I am aware of this. I just notice that people are informed and advised on everything. For example, when buying a new TV. You look at the Internet, asking friends, informing manufacturers and technical staff in the business. In addition, the question is what are the exact requirements of the new device. Do I need a flat screen? Is smaller enough for me or do I want to play games and need bigger ones? No one creates such thoughts in their own care. People read "wrinkle-free", "70 percent organic" or "silicone-free" for five days and buy the product.
Many consumers now get information about specific applications or the internet. What do you think about programs like Codecheck and Co.?
Nothing! Unfortunately, there is no control system that checks the data. There are very questionable and undifferentiated reviews out there. Certain ingredients are equally harmful, but not all, such as palm oil or gluten. Some information is also completely out of date.
What ingredients are essential and scientifically proven effective?
Maybe in advance: I'm not really interested in labels. I'm all for the ingredients. And there are many. My favorites are the so-called fruit acids. They help with both acne and so-called aging. Because the mechanism of action is the same: cell stimulation again, I call it Zell-Sport. Then there are the antioxidants, which are essential, and the so-called retinol. They come from the family of Vitamin A. And of course, nothing works without sun protection! •